“There are two types of people in this world, those who love Delis and those you shouldn’t associate with.” – Damon Runyon
A few years back Subway sandwich shops started carrying pastrami. Have you ever had it? It’s awful. It’s as if someone took a piece of pastrami and wrung out all the flavor. Unfortunately, to a majority of people in this country, the pastrami of Subway and other chain sandwich shops is what they think of when they think of pastrami. Anyone who has ever stepped foot in a classic Jewish-style deli will know what real pastrami tastes like.
Why is this so important? Because the delicatessen as America knew it in the early to mid-20th century is disappearing. Only 150 classic Jewish-style delis are operating in the United States, and that number is dwindling as aging customers die out, meat prices rise, and people’s tastes change. Deli Man, directed by Erik Anjou, traces the history of the delicatessen in America, its history with Jewish culture, and why this style of cooking and dining deserves to be preserved for future generations.
Deli Man profiles the owners of noted delicatessens across the U.S. and Toronto, including New York’s Carnegie Deli, Artie’s Deli, 2nd Avenue Deli, Katz’s Deli, and the gone but not forgotten Stage Deli. It also includes interviews with noted deli lovers Jerry Stiller, Larry King, and Fyvush Finkel.
The main focus of Deli Man is Ziggy Gruber (brother of writer/director J. Mackye Gruber, who is best known for Final Destination 2, The Butterfly Effect and TV’s Kyle XY). Gruber is the owner of Kenny & Ziggy’s, a popular deli in Houston, Texas. Gruber is something of a deli revivalist and historian — in fact, numerous people in the documentary talk of Gruber having the old soul of an early 20th century Lower East Side Jewish immigrant. Naturally Gruber is a fascinating, funny character, and while I enjoyed the focus on him I also thought it took away from the history narratives and the profiles of the other deli owners. There is an odd balance to the film, as if Anjou wasn’t sure if this was a documentary about Jewish delicatessens as a whole or if it was about Ziggy Gruber specifically.
Deli Man is served with a full helping of Yiddish lingo, which is thankfully translated with on-screen definitions for gentiles like me. Of course, it also shows plate after plate of monster-sized sandwiches that, like 2014’s Chef, will make your mouth water. This is not only a movie for foodies, but it’s also a documentary for anyone interested in New York City Jewish history.
Just be sure not to watch the film late in the evening when any place you can get a decent pastrami sandwich is already closed because you’re going to want one.
RATING: Deli Man is a delectable feast of food, history, and humor (7/10).
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